I just discovered that they're not charging me an arm and a leg to get online at my hotel, so I can load my usual thumbnail and large versions of journal pics while here, at least.

I think the biggest surprise I had in London was how good the coffee was. I didn't have a bad cup. There are coffee shops everywhere, and, although they still ask you if you want it "black or white", if you asked for "Americano", you received a strong, tasty mug of what I'm used to in the States. Here in Italy, though, I think they assume that if you want your coffee Americano style, you must want it to be weak and insipid. I suppose I'll have to drink espresso instead, if I want a real jolt. I have nothing against espresso apart from the fact that it's over so quickly - it's the premature ejaculation of the coffee world.

I know the suspense is killing you. :) Did Keith sleep well or not last night? Yes, he did! Beautifully, in fact, which is amazing considering how noisy this hotel turns out to be in the evening. The still I experienced in the afternoon, when I took a siesta nap, was misleading. In the evening everyone is shouting, and rattling around, getting ready to go clubbing, or coming home late from an intoxicated dinner. It doesn't help that there's a group of American college-age kids here, who think they're still in a dorm, and run up and down the coridoor in and out of each other's rooms.

It's amazing how changed I felt after that good night's sleep. I was ready to hit Rome today! I made myself a little plan for the day, but as soon as I stepped outside, my feet took control and I started wandering. I crossed the Tiber and ended up at the Ministry of Public ... Lavatories?; my first colossal heap of stone for the day - the first of many, I might add. Okay, I think "Lavori" actually means "work", but my Italian is almost non-existent so I'm not too sure. Quick quiz - how many photos of antiquities and big buildings can you stomach in one day? I thought so. Rest assured I've edited this set of photos down a lot!

The Ministry of Public Lavatories :)

It was extremely warm today, but there was a breeze, and it was just more or less comfortable in the shade. Suddenly, I heard a band in the distance playing, of all things, "It's a Long Way to Tipperary". I looked in that direction, the trees parted, and there was St Peter's in the distance.

First view of St Peter's

The main problem with letting my feet decide the route is that I never quite know where I am. Which is good when all of a sudden amazing sites appear round the corner without any expectation. But hugging the ample shade afforded by the tall apartment buildings and narrow streets, I made it back sucessfully to Piazza Navone for a restorative espresso. Only, according to my vocabulary book, they call it caffe ristrato here in Italy. So where did the very Italian sounding "espresso" come from? At any rate, I sat there with my ristrato and my International Herald Tribune feeling very Katharine Hepburn.

My next stop was the Palazzo Altemps, part of the Museo Nazionale Romano, an elegant palace sparsely populated with ancient statues and frescoes, most of which were restored in the 17th century. Each room held only three or four statues, which allowed you to really take your time with those that appealed to you.

"The Labors of Hercules" at Palazzo Altemps

I ate lunch at Il Delfino on Cor Vittorio Emanuel, a self-service cafeteria suggested by Frommers. It was perfect for me, since I could choose a balance of protein and vegetables - slices of pork loin with spinach, a seafood salad and a fruit salad to finish. For once, I had a meal in Europe with no bread. I admit I'm getting sick of sandwiches! And it was cheap - nine bucks for three courses including a bottle of mineral water.

Just a few blocks away, a diminutive sign says "Pantheon 50 m". Then suddenly the street unwinds to reveal the ancient, and massively impressive temple, built by Hadrian and still fully intact. I can't do it justice, so I'll let Byron speak for me: "simple, erect, severe, auster, sublime."

The Pantheon

Inside, a large, open, perfect circle is cut, and the sunlight angles down illuminating the sides of the dome.

The sun shining through the perfectly circular hole cut in the dome

I was attracting an unusually large amount of attention with my fully-extended mini-tripod (necessary to keep the camera still for the long exposure needed for the previous shot). The reason became clear when the security guard came over and told me tripods are forebidden. Hmmm. You're not supposed to sit on the floor either, so there are two strikes against me!

Sitting on the floor of the Pantheon. I'm staring somewhat anxiously at an old biddy who wandered in and out of the frame a second before the flash went off.

Time for more coffee - this time a capuccino at the Bar Pantheon.

A coffee with a view. Mind you pay for that view - $3.50!

There are lots of Americans in Rome, and sitting there at the cafe I noticed several fine, strapping examples. What I notice in American men, though, is first their physiques; it's as if their bodies were meant to be the models for the ancient Roman statues I saw earlier in the day. What I notice instead about Italians, first, is that although there bodies are rarely as impressive, their faces are enchanting, with soulful eyes, strong mouth and chin, flashing and friendly smiles, full of character.

I headed in the direction of the Colosseum and came upon a site I hadn't read about in Frommers, the Vittorio Emanuele Monument. I've never heard of him, but he must have been something special considering the astonishing scale of his monument!

The Vittorio Emanuele Monument

Then there came another example of the pleasures that come from wandering without a real plan. I rounded the massive monument, trying to find a more interesting-looking route to the Colosseum, when I came across one of the most famous vistas in the world - the Forum, spread out before my unexpecting eyes. I'd read about it, and planned to visit, but I hadn't gotten around to figuring out where it was, and I certainly didn't expect it to be so majestic.

The Forum

In the heat, however, the sunny paths shimmering through the forum didn't look inviting right there and then, so I headed back and around the monument along the main road leading to the Colosseum, where there was plenty of shade.

Resting in the shade, nearly at the Colosseum

Outside the Colossseum

You can pay to get into the Colosseum, if you feel like standing in a long line in 90 degree heat. But if you sneak up to the turnstile, you can get a free peak inside. I tried hard to imagine the place full of cheering Romans watching slaves fighting lions: but I couldn't summon the image - I guess I should go see "Gladiator" when I get back to London :)

I was starting to accomodate myself to the heat. Really, it doesn't seem to matter too much when you're just wearing an old t-shirt and you don't mind sweating. So I decided to walk back through the Forum.

Ruined columns in the Forum silhouetted against a perfect Rome sky

I took a detour for a 12,000 lira trip up the Palatine Hill. This was a real find - it's quiet and peaceful up there, and you can almost imagine ancient Romans enjoying the breezes, trees and birds. It's full of ruins, and you get them practically all to yourself as few people venture up the hill. So it's just you, the ruins and the wild pussy cats (there are lots of them at all Roman ruin sites here).

In the ruins on Palatine Hill

Please don't tell the Rome authorities that I got naked on Palatine Hill :) I don't often think I take great photos, but I have to say I'm proud of this one. The lighting, and structure of the photo all came together well.

It had been a great day, but I was parched and weary - time to head back to my hotel and rest before working out later this evening, and then going for a run. I'm also thinking of going out for a nice dinner tonight, and maybe even out for a drink somewhere. Tune in tomorrow for more :)